Vertainspitze Nordwand - 06/2014

 

Objective : Vertainspitzze Nordwand, bis 90°
Team : Tilmam, Georg
Date : 21.06.2014

 

21.06.2014
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03:40 Aufbruch Duesseldorfer Huette
05:30 Einstieg Eiswand
09:30 Gipfel Vertainspitze
13:00 zurueck an Duesseldorfer Huette
15:00 zurueck am Auto (Sulden)

 

Tilman the sheep whisperer - on the approach to the Duesseldorfer Huette Business as usual: Nighttime approach to the Vertainspitze northface Getting ready for some ice climbing Which proved to be more difficult than thought - the 1st pitch contained 20m of 90° rotten ice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tilman in the 1st pitch Tilman in the 60° 2nd pitch No more freezing for today! On the bright side of life

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tilman in the 3rd pitch. After 4 pitches we put the ropes in the backpacks.. ..and gain the final 300 Hm in quite good snow conditions. Tilman on the saddle 50m below the summit, with the Duesseldorfer Huette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last meters Last meters Vertainspitze summit Vertainspitze summit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vertainspitze summit Descending via the Vertainspitze Nordostgrat (up to sections of grade II and rotten snow) Crossing below on the Laaser Ferner... ...heading up to the Angelusscharte at 3337m...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...and finally descending to the Duesseldorfer Huette. Here: Route approach from the hut Vertainspitze north face seen from descent Tilman contemplating this morning's work Roughly the location of the north face route, seen from he Duesseldorfer Huette.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Panorama of Koenigsspitze, Monte Zebru and the Ortler Hintergrat on the right side. Tilman and the Ortler Back in Sulden